Identification d'une roue libre et moyeux dans Vélo de Route : Technique/mécanique sur le forum Troc Vélo

de chouettes moyeux a priorie tes roues de 94 ont 8x plus d'esperance de vie que les cosmic sl modernes.....qui font rarement plus de 5 ans ou 20 000km :clap: je ne connais pas bien les standards de shimano de cette période un brin de lecture? (a) Hyperglide ® With conventional derailer systems, the shift is accomplished by moving the chain sideways until it can no longer mesh with the sprocket that it is on. It then disengages, and falls on to the next sprocket that is closest to being in line with it. In the late '80's, Shimano introduced "Hyperglide", a new sprocket design that allows the chain to engage two adjacent sprockets simultaneously. It meshes with the new sprocket before it disengages from the old one. This results in smoother, quieter, faster shifting. This is accomplished by shaping individual teeth differently on the same sprocket, and by forming ramps into the sides of the sprockets to facilitate downshifting. To make this work, the rotational position of each sprocket tooth must be aligned to that of the adjacent sprockets. The older "Uniglide" sprockets could be installed on the body in 9 different orientations (18 if you count the flipped-over positions!) Hyperglide sprockets only go on one way, because one of the splines (tabs) in the sprockets is wider than the others. This wide spline fits only into a matching wide groove on the Hyperglide body. There is a "^" stamped into the sprocket to help find this wide spline. Since the rotational position of the sprocket is critical to making Hyperglide work, threaded sprockets cannot be used. All sprockets in a Hyperglide cassette are splined, and a special lockring screws into internal threads on the Freehub body to hold the set together. This lockring can use the same splined tool as is used to remove Shimano and Sachs/SRAM conventional freewheels. A threaded Hyperglide body (or Uniglide body) can, however, be useful to avoid excessive dishing of the rear wheel on a bicycle with narrow overlocknut spacing. You install an outermost, threaded sprocket backwards (with the flange at the outside), use a spacer at its inside, and rearrange the axle spacers. There will be one fewer sprocket than usual. This is not particularly difficult, and can make good sense with a non-steel frame with a narrow overlocknut dimension that can't be changed. People like to complain about Shimano's making things obsolete for "no reason" but that is not justified in this case. Older Uniglide splined sprockets can be used with no problem on the new bodies. Many older Hyperglide bodies also have the external threads that let you screw a Uniglide small sprocket on. But also, most Uniglide Freehubs can be updated by installing a Hyperglide ratchet body. This is an easy and inexpensive modification (see below.) To provide the Hyperglide functionality, each sprocket must be designed with regard to the adjacent sprockets. For instance, there are 3 different 15 tooth sprockets for 7-speed systems: one version works between a 13 and a 17; another works between a 14 and a 17; another works between a 14 and a 16. Hyperglide cassettes are commonly sold as a unit There are dozens of different cassette combinations available. Most cassettes are designated by a one- or two-letter code. Also, hubs marked "8-speed", "9-speed" or "10-speed" will work with any number of sprockets up to 10! (Add a 4.5 mm spacer before installing a 7-speed cassette on an 8-, 9-, or 10-speed hub, and the included 1-mm spacer before installing a 10-speed cassettes on an 8- or 9- speed hub.) Any of these cassettes will work with an 11-speed hub with the addition of another 0.85 mm spacer. 1.85 mm spacers are available so a 10-speed cassette will work on an 11-speed hub. Mavic's Shimano-compatible hubs will work with any number of sprockets up to 11, if you use the necessary spacers. Any Shimano Hyperglide cassette will fit any Shimano Hyperglide hub with the following exceptions: 7-speed hubs only accept 7-speed cassettes --though 8 or 9 sprockets can be installed on a 7-speed hub, using 9- or 10-speed spacing. It is also possible to transplant an 8- 9- 10-speed cassette body onto most 7-speed Freehubs. Dura-Ace 7800 and 7801 10-speed hubs (and Ultegra wheelsets) with the aluminum Freehub body and tall splines accept only Dura-Ace, Ultegra and 105 10-speed cassettes. Many older hubs have a problem with 11 tooth sprockets. Capreo hubs and cassettes (special models with 9-tooth sprocket capability) are not interchangeable with anything else, though the 5 inner sprockets are interchangeable individually. 11-speed cassettes will fit only 11-speed bodies, or Mavic's Shimano-compatible bodies. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html [url]https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyperglide[/url]

le

13/03/17 à 11h40

Répondre à ce message

Signaler ce message

look386

Alors là , si c est dur de mettre une 9 faut essayer c est clair . je ne connais pas ...... :( Mais si tu as une 9 V dessus , la 10 V n est pas plus large. mais monte une shimano

le

13/03/17 à 12h08

Répondre à ce message

Signaler ce message

kittytrail

y'a pas eu de changement dimensionnel chez Shimano sur les corps HyperGlide entre 8, 9 et 10v côté CRL hormis les HG10 en alu de la série 7800... :whistling: ____________________________________________________________________________ abrasif, stricto-légaliste, dépressif, complexé, dominicalement lagué et corrosif...

le

13/03/17 à 12h56

Répondre à ce message

Signaler ce message

ggilbe02

J'ai une 9 desssus mais ca passe tout juste. Une 10 but miche est aussi large qu'une 9vitesses? Merci

le

13/03/17 à 13h03

Répondre à ce message

Signaler ce message

look386

""""y'a pas eu de changement chez Shimano sur les corps HyperGlide entre 8, 9 et 10v"""" Ben alors c est que ça se monte une 10 ......

le

13/03/17 à 16h38

Répondre à ce message

Signaler ce message

ggilbe02

Merci pour les réponses les gars!! Je test ca demain avec une 10 vit. Merci!

le

13/03/17 à 19h13

Répondre à ce message

Signaler ce message

kittytrail

t'as raté le test de compréhension, j'ai écrit "chez Shimano", pas chez les autres. autres qui font du plus ou moins compatible en fonctions de leurs lubies et/ou (in)capacités techniques... :whistling: là t'as du Mavic pour le CRL et du Miche pour la cassette, sans oublier l'écrou dont on ne connait ni l'origine ni pour quel pignon de départ ni combien de vitesses il a été prévu/conçu pour et qui est peut être -ou peut être pas- le bon non plus et tout ça sans même parler des tolérances de fabrication/contrôles qualité de chacun des intervenants. (a) d'où mon "bonne chance" du départ... :whistling: ____________________________________________________________________________ abrasif, stricto-légaliste, dépressif, complexé, dominicalement lagué et corrosif...

le

13/03/17 à 20h00

Répondre à ce message

Signaler ce message

Identification d'une roue libre et moyeux dans Vélo de Route : Technique/mécanique sur le Forum Troc Vélo